| Madeline Charley Davis used lettering and invented designs that appealed
to non-Indians and sold very well. Whether a basket sold well and at a
high price were key measures of success to weavers in 1929 who mostly derived
their living from weaving. The shape of a cap was certainly important to
weavers judging the photographs of caps O’Neale showed them. Generally
weavers expected traditional shapes and harshly judged caps that deviated.
Shape varied from a tight fitting style characteristic of work caps to
a flatter crown with the button slightly recessed for ceremonial caps.
Work caps fit the head closely at most points, whereas the ceremonial cap
primarily fits along the rim. The most uncomplimentary comment about the
shape of a cap is that it looks like a bowl. Shape was not thought to be
an area for dramatic experimentation. Color usage, pattern invention, and
new pattern combinations were areas of innovation. Wearing a new cap to
the dance or having one’s daughter or niece wear a new cap was important
in 1929. Today there are no expectations women will wear new caps each
year. |